Memorable 12-Day Trip to Arunachal and Assam

Before I proceed further, I must mention about RK Trips and Outings, who curated this itinerary, planned well ahead and got the best deals. Also, the briefing provided by them one week before the actual journey with requirements, preparedness and patiently answering all the questions of the members of the team, was useful.

Just after breakfast on 26^th Oct (Day2), we had our 20-seater vehicle ready to take us and our luggage. We were to spend more than fifty percent of our daytime in this vehicle for the next 10 days, travelling long distances in Assam and Arunachal Pradesh, mostly in hilly terrains. The loading and unloading of the luggage are a ritual, we had to do at least 9 times, for which we have to allocate at least twenty minutes and plan accordingly.

Few of us, mostly elders, chose to go to Maa Kamakya temple at Guwahati while the children and their parents decided to spend time with animals and birds at Guwahati Zoo.

We had arranged a Pandit (or Panda) at Kamakya temple, by booking in advance. We hoped that the visit should not take long. But it was not to be. We had to stand (and sit) in queue for about four hours before we had a darshan and come out. The rush was attributed to the weekend (Saturday), and probably we should have gone there earlier at 7.30 am instead of 8.30 am. Whatever said, we had no choice but to wait. There were arrangements to sit for fifty percent of the time and the crowd was managed reasonably well.

We also managed to visit another temple, Purva Balaji Temple (East Tirupathi). It was neatly maintained. Though, it was closed for Puja, being afternoon, we could have a good darshan of Lord Balaji (replica of Tirupathi Balaji) and other deities. We also had a sumptuous lunch within the temple precincts. It was surprising to see Chennai Dosa Centre at Guwahati.  It was good.

With the other group who went to Zoo also joining us at Balaji Temple, we proceeded to our next pitstop at Tezpur (Assam) at around 3 pm, which was about 180 kms from Guwahati. We reached in time for dinner at Tezpur.

Stay at Tezpur was at KRC Palace. Dinner and Breakfast was good and nothing to complain. Since it was just for an overnight stay, we started immediately after breakfast at about 8.30 am (27^th Oct, Day 3) to our next stop, namely, Dirang (Arunachal). Though the distance was only about 190 kms, due to hilly terrain it took more than 6 hours.

En-route to Dirang, we had some fun events, quiz and storytelling in the bus. We also spent some time on Bhareili river by the side of the highway to Balukpong, a town on Assam & Arunachal border. Water was clear and not much depth, so children and elders could wet their feet in chill water. It was real fun.

We also had another stop over for lunch at Norling Inn, Jamiri Point. The food was prepared after our reaching there, so we had to wait for some time. It was worth the wait, as we had hot rotis, rice with dal and curry. There was plenty of free area and good views and it was relaxing.

Before we reached Dirang, we had a halt at Singchung, West Kameng District, to have a look at Ball of Fire Museum. This is a small war memorial museum with miniature replicas of the various locations in Arunachal, where the Indo China war took place in 1962 (Oct to Nov). It was mentioned that Chinese almost came up to this interior from the border. We could not go inside the museum as it was closed.

We reached Hotel Rigsel at Dirang valley at around 4 pm. Dirang is a valley surrounded by mountains on all the sides and a river flowing across the valley. It was very picturesque though we missed to see snow clad mountains.

Hotel Rigsel is a new property with vast area. The lobby was very large and very high ceiling. It had a luxury and a rugged feeling. When we arrived, we felt we were the only guests, and we occupied the entire lobby. We played board games and children were immersed in drawing and painting. It was quite cold with temperature below ten degrees. The dinner and breakfast were good with reasonable spread. We went for a good walk on the property with a good view of the mountains and river.

Stay at Dirang was just overnight. Generally, tourists take a break at Dirang or at Bomdila, when they travel from Guwahati (Assam) to Tawang (Arunachal) as the travel takes more than 12 hours. While returning, we stayed at Bomdila.

Next day, (28^th Oct, Day 4), after breakfast, we started at around 8.30 am (this has become a routine now – wake, pack, eat, leave!), towards Tawang. We had an option to go to Dirang monastery or Sangti Valley before traveling out of Dirang. We preferred Sangti valley. It was a small village at the riverbed with a bridge over Sangti River. It was beautiful. Children and elders alike enjoyed the chill water touching up to knees. Sun was bright and hot at the head, but the water was giving the coolness from the foot. After spending an hour, we resumed our journey towards Tawang.

This was the real mountain route with lots of curves and many hair pin bends and the height was increasing rapidly. There were many army camps throughout the path namely Rama camp, Mohan camp, Jangdong, Sangrila. We stopped at Baisakhi, another army camp at about 11200 ft above sea level, for a bio break and tea break. There were few bakeries and army canteen outlets offering hot tea, pakodas and samosas.

By the time we reached Jaswant Garh, another large army camp, where we thought we can have some lunch, it was already late (beyond 2.30 p.m.) and only rice and dal were left. We just managed with it and continued our journey.

We took a small detour to have a look at Sela Pas, which was at about 13700 ft ASL. It was cold with temperature at about five degrees. We also had a look at Sela Lake though we didn’t venture to walk down to the lake. Here again, the entire surrounding would be snow clad and in Dec to Feb, it would also be snowing. However, as we went in October, it was completely dry and black mountains, though at a distance we could capture a snow scattered mountain.

We proceeded to Tawang and reached our hotel by about 4.30 pm. It was cold but was pleasant. The hotel was Taj Vivanta, obviously the best in our entire trip and we stayed there three nights.

Taj Vivanta’s property was huge, both inside and outside. The lobby was beautiful with high ceiling up to 5^th floor. Swimming pool with adjusted temperature and Kids play area were other amenities we could utilize. Food was really good with large spread of items including south Indian idly and dosa.

We planned for a small local site seeing at Tawang, the next day, 29^th Oct (Day 5).  This included War Memorial, Large Buddha statue and Monastery. War Memorial was mainly in the memory of Indian army personnel who lost their lives in 1962 Indo China war. All the names of martyrs were inscribed in granite stone, battalion wise. In another place, statues (bud size) of some of the valiant soldiers were there. A museum and statue of Sardar Patel was to be unveiled a day later on 31^st Oct (Deepavali day), by Defense minister, Sri Rajnath Singh. Preparations were in full swing for the same.

We then proceeded to see Large Buddha statue in the middle of the town. This was already built on a high point of a hillock, and the size of the statue was also huge. It was visible from long distance when we were travelling around Tawang town.

Our next stop was to Tawang Monastery. It is known in Tibetan as Gaden Namgyal Lhatse, which translates to “the divine paradise of complete victory”. It was one of the oldest and largest monasteries in the country. Many students are studying Buddhism here. Of course, we did not see any activity, like chanting or prayer, whenAs we left the Monastery, it was time for our lunch. We looked for some vegetarian restaurants and were lucky to find one through Google maps, The Veggies Restaurant and Sweets, at Old Market, Tawang. It was a Rajasthani restaurant, and they provided delicious hot vegetarian thali, of course after a brief wait. We also enjoyed some mouth-watering sweets. The place was small but was neat and service was good.

It was just relaxing for the rest of the day with kids going for swimming and some games. we went there. There is also museum but didn’t feel it worth as it had mostly some photos of few visitors to the monastery like Neelam Sanjeeva Reddy, Rajiv Gandhi and Dalai Lama (in young age when he escaped from Tibet and took asylum in India).

We had planned a trip to Bumla Pas the next day (30^th Oct). This is one of the highlights of the entire trip. This was not in our vehicle but in three Innova vehicles, as large or self-driven vehicles are not allowed there. It requires a special permission with all the tourists’ name with photos and identity cards. We left at about 9 am after our breakfast and it was about 2 hours’ journey. When we reached there at about 11 am, it was cold with temperature at about 3 degrees. Even with all the cover up with jackets, caps and gloves the cold was felt. We were also prepared with camphor and small oxygen bottles to use in case of emergency or breathlessness due to the altitude. Fortunately, they were not needed. Beyond a point, as we go closer to the China border, no photography is allowed. They take photo and give a framed print at a cost.

The soldier recounted the China War, highlighting how bravely our Indian soldiers fought against Chinese aggression despite being underprepared and facing ammunition shortages. It was inspiring to learn that they fought to the last breath, causing significant casualties before their martyrdom, marking a profound loss for India. The conflict lasted from October 20 to November 21, 1962, with the Chinese advancing nearly 100 Kms into Indian territory and inflicting severe damage. They eventually declared a unilateral ceasefire and withdrew to their original positions. Currently, peace prevails at the border, with Chinese and Indian soldiers interacting from their posts.

An army canteen at Bumla pass provides hot masala tea, noodles and even jalebis. It was delicious.

We then proceeded to Shungatser lake (now popularly called as Madhuri Lake after a film shooting with Madhuri Dixit!). It was very beautiful, and we could see the river water flowing into the lake surrounded by mountains. Again, these may be fully covered by snow at some other time. Even the lake would be frozen. The temperature was very cold.

The army canteen there provided snacks and food options. Soup, Rice and Rajma, Momos, Noodles and of course tea were available at very nominal rate and were tasty too. In fact, our lunch was completed there.

We returned to our hotel and relaxed for the rest of the day. We also celebrated a birthday of one of our kids and must appreciate the cake and decoration made by Taj Vivanta.

Before even we realise, three days and three nights were over at Taj Vivanta, Tawang. We had to bid farewell to the best hospitality that we had in our trip. It was Diwali day, and all were dressed up to the occasion, followed by some photo session in Taj interiors.

We started our return journey after our breakfast at around 9 am (31^st Oct, Day 7) and this time our next stop was planned at Bomdila, a mid-way point to Kaziranga (as well as to Guwahati). Within less than one hour from Tawang, we stopped for a view of Jung falls (Nuranang falls). It was a great sight with water smoke caused by powerful fall of water from a height with of course huge noise. It was a great spot for photo shoots, and we made a merry.

We passed through the same places on our return crossing Sela, Jaswant Garh and Baishaki. We searched for a food joint and found one in google map, NOR’s kitchen and homestay, and called them up to prepare lunch. It was just 15 minutes away, so we reached there even before they cut vegetables for curry or kneaded the atta! We had no other choice than to wait for about an hour before hot roti and rice were served. The food was tasty. It was a small place so all of us could not sit at a time and took turn to finish our lunch. (Even plates were not adequate!). But nothing to complain as we got what we wanted and satiated.

We wanted to visit Bomdila Monastery, and we thought we reached before closing time of 5 pm. But it was already closed.

So, we went to our hotel, The Grand, which was in a busy bazar area in a narrow hair pin bend. The size of the hotel and the room did not reflect the name Grand! Probably, that is the best available hotel in the town as there were more occupants. Dinner and breakfast were reasonable, though nothing great.

Climate was very cold, and a small room heater equipment did help to get little warmth. We also did hear some crackers sound at Bomdila, being Diwali night, though not comparable to Chennai or other big cities.

We set out towards Kaziranga, after our breakfast at about 8.30 am (1^st Nov, Day 8). We skipped Bomdila Monastery, though there was another new monastery in walking distance from the Hotel. Most of us went to that Monastery before boarding the bus.

We passed through Bhalukpong (Arunachal and Assam border), Tezpur and then to Kaziranga. When we searched for places to see nearby, we got Tippi Orchid Research Centre, near Bhalukpong. We went in there but there were no orchids in large number as it was not the season. However, there were few orchids and cactuses in display in a greenhouse room.

We halted for lunch at a fine dining restaurant, Mannat, on the highway, few kilometers before Kaziranga, of course thanks to Google map. Though the ambience was good, the food was not that great, especially for the price.

We reached Royale de Casa Resorts, our place of stay for next two days at Kaziranga. It was a massive property with huge lawn and open swimming pool and somewhat recently constructed. Rooms were quite big with a view to the lawn from the balcony. Food was also good with option of buffet and a-la-carte. Kids enjoyed in the pool in the evening. I also spent good time in the pool the next day.  

Next day (2^nd Nov), early morning, around 6.30 am, we went for elephant safari in Kaziranga. There were plenty of tourists at those early hours and there were also plenty of elephants. It is a sofa like setup on the elephant and four were seated beside mahout. The ride was almost 45 minutes. We could sight few one horned Rhinos, Deers and of course vast areas of wetlands.

It appeared little cruel to sit on the elephants and that too four in number. In fact, one of our members didn’t join elephant safari, for the reason of ‘cruelty to animals’. I checked with the mahout as to how much time elephants are engaged in this activity and he informed that on normal days it is two rounds per elephant and on holidays, it may be three rounds for some elephants. This is only in the morning from 6.30 to 8.30 am and rest of the day, the elephants are let free (tied of course) to graze.

We returned to our rooms and relaxed after breakfast and lunch. By about 4 pm, we went for Jeep safari. The jeeps came to our place and took us deep into the reserve or forest area of Kaziranga National Park. We could sight Rhinos, Deers, Elephants and Bison. We could also have a view of the vast National Park from watch tower. Sunset view was also good.

We also attended Assamese cultural program close to our place of stay, which is held daily in the Orchid Park from 6.30 pm till 8 pm. There were about 10 events, mostly different type of Assamese dances. It was good to watch being in Assam.